Phase Trade Name INCI Name % By weight Function
A Emulgade® Verde 10 MS Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate 2 Emulsifier (O/W)
Eumulgin® SG Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate 0.5 Emulsifier (O/W)
Cutina® Shine Dicocoyl Pentaerythrityl Distearyl Citrate 3 Film forming agent
Tinosorb® S* Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 4.5 Broad spectrum UV filter
Homosalate Homosalate 15 UV-B filter
Octisalate Octisalate 5 UV-B filter
Octocrylene Octocrylene 6 UV-B filter
Lanette® 22 Behenyl Alcohol 0.5 Consistency agent
B Z-Cote® Sheer Zinc Oxide (and) Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and)

Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (and)

Lecithin

 13.40 Broad spectrum UV filter
C Water Water 44.90  
  Euxyl PE 9010 (Ashland) Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethyhexylglycerin 1  
D Verdessence Xanthan Xanthan Gum 0.70 Rheology Modifier
  Glycerin Glycerin 3 Humectant
E Citric Acid 25% solution Water (and) Citric Acid 0.50 pH adjuster
*Tinosorb® S (BEMT) is currently undergoing FDA review and is not approved for use in the United States as a sunscreen active.

Procedure:

  1. Combine phase A and heat to 75C. First add oils, then melt waxes, then add Tinosorb S, mix until clear.
  2. Add B to A and mix until uniform
  3. Combine phase C, start mixing and heating to 75C
  4. Pre-mix phase D and add to C, and mix until uniform and reaches 75C
  5. Homogenize A/B until uniform (30sec to 1min)
  6. Then add A/B to C/D and homogenize for 1.5min until uniform
  7. Transfer to propeller mixing and start cooling.
  8. At 30C or less add phase E ingredients one at a time and mix until uniform
  9. Adjust pH to 7.2 if necessary